杨德昌访谈
鄭慧蘋訪問：
1.关于影片长度：“我認為每一個東西、每一個戲劇都有其生命長度，它的生命絕非任何戲院老闆或任何人可以硬性規定……所以是看什麽東西，你要講多少故事、傳述多少感覺。”
2.关于影像造型：“我從小就畫畫，時斷時續的，可是都是正統的訓練，一直到我念電機碩士時，還在修藝術系的課。所以這方面（影像）我比較講究。”
3.关于《海滩的一天》中“母亲”角色：“母親那個角色（《海滩的一天》中林佳莉的母亲）是我對上一代農業社會里的女人的詮釋，也許目前婦女運動的人來看會認為是被壓抑的，可是在當時的社會結構就是男人白天出去工作，太太在家裡把許多事情做好，而整個社會最主要的核心是在家庭，那時候的女人佔有很重要的地位，要不然也不會有那些成功的人、家庭。”
4.关于女性：“社會上有什麽變化，對女人來講比較容易感覺到，男人就覺得我還是跟以前差不多……男人和男人有一份哥們兒、兄弟間的感情，不是一種跟一個女人的感情可以替換的（注：存疑）。從小有些形象男人得去保護，不太容易戳破；女人就不同了，現在社會變化所引起的反應在女人身上比較明顯……並非我對女人有特別的研究，而是從她們的角度較容易看到社會的變遷。”
5.关于“新电影”导演：“我們這一群（侯孝賢、柯一正、曾壯祥、萬仁、張毅、陶德辰、王銘燦、邱銘誠）……有一種使命感的認知……對社會，對所有的人……我認為我沒有資格告訴任何人你應該怎麼樣，這是一個作者良心的問題，你自己可以做決定的”
6. 关于“長廊”：“我只是希望在這平面的銀幕上，給它另外一個角度，另外一個dimension”
7. 关于推拉镜头：“zoom（推拉镜头）在國片里通常是十個鏡頭有八個， 我這部電影里大約有一千多個鏡頭，但是只有一個zoom，而且根本看不出來是zoom……因為人的眼睛沒有這種功能，你要用它時必須很有把握，不是隨便可以用的。通常用zoom是很懶惰的行為，我覺得靠近是攝影機推近，而非用zoom進來，這是兩種不同的效果”（注：我们戏称“拉風箱”，1960年代邵氏武俠片，及1980年代北影的《傷逝》，为滥用zoom的范例）
8.关于责任感：“如果我們是爲了得那個獎拍電影，我想會很不自然，很不自在。我們拍電影是爲了大眾，因為你關懷大眾……我們的作品都應該是這樣，因為電影是大眾文化，我是其中的小角色，所以我做的態度就應該對大眾負責任。”“我覺得很成功的時候，也許是有一天有一個人跟我說，他看這部電影想到很多事情……我拍這部電影是想激發一些人的思想與反省，這目的達到就對了。”
9.关于香港电影：“雖然我也曾經在香港待過半年，但或許是個人或學國畫的關係，或者是中國人的思想、習慣，我影片里很多地方留情緒、留白，我們跟香港不一樣的地方大概就在這裡。香港往往需要很多的鏡頭在很快的剪接節奏下，來填充影片內容；而我若是戲中的張力夠，就不會隨便把戲的張力剪掉。例如張艾嘉在病床上講話那一段，真是一刀都不能剪……我想，這是和香港不太一樣的，其實台灣有很多自己的文化、傳統，可以好好運用。”
（原載於1983年12月出刊的台北《世界電影》雜誌第182期）
鄒開蓮訪問：
1. 关于改行：何以念完電機碩士卻撇開而投向電影，他笑著說：“因為我沒聽說什麽人會餓死的，我只是做我喜歡做的事……其實念理工對我也有很大幫助，它訓練了我條理分析的能力”
2. 关于“新电影”导演：新導演間的互助早有耳聞，但眼見陳坤厚進進出出和侯孝賢、楊德昌商量劇情的分場，甚至楊德昌、杜可風在與《小爸爸的天空》并無關係的情形之下，仍忙得兩天沒上床睡覺，不禁讓我們聯想到新導演間互相影響的結果，是否會導致作品中有太多相似，而成為另一種危機？“我覺得我們在一起工作很好，絕對比以前電影圈好。因為我們年齡相近，有許多共同的看法，生活背景很相似，才會聚在一起，但每個人選的體裁不盡相同，詮釋的方式不同，剪接想法也各有差異，拍出來的東西自然不一樣。我們雖然常給拍片的導演建議，但是執導者如果不這麼認為，仍然會很堅持自己的意見，這些就是個人的風格吧！假如一個人會受其他人影響的話，那就是他還需要被人影響，自己風格尚未確立。”
3. 关于香港电影：他認為香港電影似乎缺少一些人文素養，顯得缺乏生命，而台灣畢竟還是承繼了中國文化以及五四白話文學以來的影響，仍深具潛力。造成港台影片風格差異，在狹小生活領域中的人，往往不易有寬大的胸襟，他認為香港電影史上最好的一部片子便是方育平導的《半邊人》，表露出他眼界之寬、胸襟之大，絕非許鞍華所能比擬（注：存疑，许鞍华的《投奔怒海》眼界也不窄）。而導演十分self-conscious去設計一些東西，讓人感覺到他刻意雕琢的痕跡，便是做作了，故此他也不太贊同譚家明的一些電影手法。在香港某些電影公司的體制下，可能完全抹煞掉作者的特有風格。
（原載於1984年3月25日出版的台北《電影人》（台灣大學視聽社的學生團體編印的一份刊物）第五期）
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Whilst fashion may try to subvert or construct gender identities, it may simply support social ideals already in place. As Malcom Barnard writes in his book Fashion as Communication, “Signs are only meaningful on the basis of their relations to all other signs” (1996, p156). In this way fashion can only convey a meaning when coupled with other signs (particularly the body itself), and as such cannot construct a gendered identity of its own accord. In order for clothing to be a signifier of a gender identity, that gender identity must already be constructed in order to give fashion its meaning. In which case, fashion is not constructing gender identities; it is reflecting and reinforcing them. Not all fashions have been accepted by society, the most obvious examples being skirts and the colour pink not being acceptable for men (Lurie, 1992, p214). Some designers, like Jennifer Minniti, have attempted to promote skirts and dresses as a male alternative; however such designs have not succeeded in the mainstream (Shreve, 1998). This is likely due to them not conforming to society’s expectations of gender identities. Men in skirts are still considered to be cross dressing, and as such skirts remain signifiers of femininity. Gender identity also comprises more than appearance. Gesture, behaviour and social standing all contribute to a person’s gender identity, and whilst fashion can attempt to draw on or hide these signifiers it cannot do so completely.
Gaultier’s design can be read as an attempt at subverting the objectification of women through fashion. By taking on a traditional signifier of women’s restriction, that is, the corset, and placing large cone shaped breasts on it, it can be said that Gaultier has created an image of female empowerment (French, 2004). By making the corset visible he highlights the way in which women have been forced to conform to accepted standards of beauty, and the way in which these standards are constructed. The cones add to this reading by removing the maternal aspects of the breast and indicating the way in which they have been objectified and the unnatural form that has become the beauty standard in western culture (French, 2004). However this design could also be seen not as a parody and symbol of empowerment, but as a reinforcement of patriarchal ideals.
In society today there is a clear divide between fashions considered feminine and those considered masculine. However, is this a result of the fashion industry itself, or is the industry merely reflecting the changing attitudes of society as a whole? It is difficult to determine where the line between gender reproduction and gender construction stands in regards to fashion and dress, as it can be read in a number of ways. Fashion has been used in attempts to deconstruct gender stereotypes, as in some cases of cross dressing, but has also been used as a means of reinforcing them via items like the high heeled shoe. Fashion has been a part of western culture for centuries and as fashion has changed so too has its significations. The style of the garments we wear, their fabrics and colours, all carry signifiers of various aspects of our lives. In times past, fashion trends were set by the middle and upper classes, with the result that fashion became a signifier of social standing. For example during the Baroque period of the seventeenth century it was fashionable for both men and woman of the upper classes to wear garments decorated with large amounts of lace and ribbon (Stecker, 1996, p14). This gave men’s fashion a highly feminine appearance; however they were quite distinct from the lower classes which did not utilise such decoration. In the present day this class distinction has lessened and a gender distinction has become predominant. This division is established almost as soon as we are born. In western culture it is customary for male babies to wear blue and female babies to wear pink. earning a living) (Lurie, 1992, p214). In the adult world it is acceptable for women to wear blue, however men still rarely wear pink, and those who do are often accused of being effeminate and homosexual (Lurie, 1992, p214). One theory states that one of the first functions of clothing was to attract the opposite sex. By only revealing and highlighting specific parts of the body, much can be left to the imagination and thus sexual desire is increased (Lurie, 1992, p213). This is similar to Freud’s assertion that “visual impressions remain the most frequent pathway along which libidinal excitation is aroused” (Freud, 1977, p69). In order to be successful in attracting a member of the opposite sex the garments must therefore serve to distinguish men from women. On a basic level this can be seen in department stores where the women’s clothing section is distinct from the men’s. However the relationship between fashion and gender is significantly more complicated, with the definition of what gender actually is having a significant effect on how fashion could be seen to impact it.
Fashion perpetuates the image of the slender woman being the ideal feminine and can sometimes have significantly detrimental effects. Due to the mass production of clothing, it has become easier for the fashion industry to encourage women to be slender (Macdonald, 1995, p208). Many of the most fashionable garments are not made larger than a woman’s Australian size fourteen. This encourages women to diet and exercise in order to lose weight, a trend also encouraged by the many advertisements involving slender women. One disturbing result of society’s fascination with being thin has been the rise in eating disorders, including anorexia (Macdonald, 1995, p208). In Australia’s November 2004 issue of Cosmopolitan an article was run entitled ‘Anorexia for Sale’. This article discussed Mary Kate Olson, a well known actress, and her public struggle with Anorexia Nervosa. Images of Olsen and other famous women who appear to be unhealthily thin, such a Kate Moss, have been used on websites known as ‘pro ana’ sites, that is, websites supporting anorexia as a ‘lifestyle choice’ as opposed to an illness (Percival, 2004, p62). Many of these sites have begun to sell ‘ana bracelets’ and ‘ana necklaces’ which are a means of identifying other anorexics and which serve as a reminder not to eat. This jewellery has proven quite popular within the anorexic community (Percival, 2004, p62). This is an extreme example of fashion (or in this case accessories) being used to specifically propagate the idea of being thin. On the other hand clothing can also be used to raise awareness of eating disorders and encourage women not to go so far. T shirts with the slogan ‘Save Mary Kate’ and a drawing of her emaciated figure were released with just this intention (Percival, 2004, p62). Released when Mary Kate began her rehabilitation, the emaciated drawing on the t shirts is far from attractive and draws attention to her bones and the unnaturalness of being so thin. The words ‘Save Mary Kate’ could be read in one of two ways however, they could refer to the fact that she is need of help, thus constructing her as a victim, or they could be referring to the desirability of her image and a wish that she remain so thin, thus the implication could be ‘Save Mary Kate from the rehabilitation clinic’. This second reading is supported by the image itself, in which she is smiling and returning the gaze of the viewer. This subverts the intended message that she is a victim.
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As he turned to go on, he spat speculatively. There was a sharp, explosive crackle that startled him. He spat again. And again, in the air, before it could fall to the snow, the spittle crackled. He knew that at fifty below spittle crackled on the snow, but this spittle had crackled in the air. Undoubtedly it was colder than fifty below–how much colder he did not know. But mont blanc pen discount the temperature did not matter. He was bound for the old claim on the left fork of Henderson Creek, where the boys were already. They had come over across the divide from the Indian Creek country, while he had come the roundabout way to take a look at the possibilities of getting out logs in the spring from the islands in the Yukon. He would be in to camp by six o’clock; a bit after dark, it was true, but the boys would be there, a fire would be going, and a hot supper would be ready. As for lunch, he pressed his hand against the protruding bundle under his jacket. It was also under his shirt, wrapped up in a handkerchief and lying against the naked skin. It was the only way to keep the biscuits from freezing. He smiled agreeably to himself as he thought of those biscuits, each cut open and sopped in bacon grease, and each enclosing a generous slice of fried bacon.
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